Unexpected Pleasures: Contemporary Jewellery

Displaying almost 200 pieces, Unexpected Pleasures: The Art and Design of Contemporary Jewellery showcases works that explore the different methodologies of contemporary jewellers. It has been installed and explained in terms that are reflective of the range of creative processes that artists work to, regardless of their chosen medium. In this way it is accessible to an audience who may not be well versed in the discipline of contemporary jewellery, as well as being of interest to those in the field.

The Design Museum, London touring exhibition has been curated by renowned Melbourne jeweler Dr Susan Cohn. The exhibition design by Ab Rogers Design has been artfully installed so that the broad curatorial themes are immediately apparent upon entry. Included are pieces from both private collections and the NGV’s own collections, contributing to the large number of Australian jewellers represented.

At the heart of the exhibition space is ‘A Fine Line’ – a small room that introduces the experimental ideas key to the origins of the contemporary jewellery movement. Jewellery has long been associated with fashion and status; considered as an accessory that may be imbued with symbolism and regarded as a craft. The contemporary jewellery movement questioned how and why it was categorized and pushed the boundaries of wearable art. A handful of familiar figures such as Wendy Ramshaw, David Watkins, Herman Jünger and Otto Künzli are represented in this space. They have been inspirational to generations of jewellers.

The most visually striking of the installations is ‘Worn Out’, which displays neckpieces in individual tall glass cabinets. Each piece is at neck height so the viewer can stand behind it and in turn be viewed ‘wearing’ the piece. The scale and design of these pieces challenge commonly understood ideas of what is wearable thus inviting you to consider the other subjects being addressed. To complement the neckpieces is a wall size projection of people in a social setting wearing the actual works. Displayed across the opposite wall are engaging photos that further explore notions of the wearable object, and re-contextualise jewellery.

The remaining section of the exhibition, ‘Linking Links’ is installed in low circular cases adopting a creature-like form on a tripod of skinny legs. Each cluster of work examines a comprehensive range of conceptual, material or production ideas by different artists. The artists’ skill in the design and creation of these works is easily appreciated. However a greater insight is gained by considering the titles and the curatorial descriptions of the collections.

Unexpected Pleasures: The Art and Design of Contemporary Jewellery
Curated by Dr Susan Cohn
National Gallery of Victoria, NGV International
April 20 – August 26