Michael Franti and Spearhead. Image by Markus Ravik Photography.
This year, the legendary Byron Bay Bluesfest celebrated its 25th anniversary. Quite an achievement when you think about how many festivals have called it quits over the past 12 months.
In Australia, Harvest Music Festival, Parklife and Pyramid Rock have all been cancelled, while events overseas have also been facing tough times with the inaugural Detroit Electronic Music Festival and Ireland’s Oxegen just two examples of international events that bit the dust.
But BluesFest is bigger and better than ever and unveiled a simply unparalleled line-up of world-class blues and roots musicians to celebrate its quarter century and welcomed some 80,000 people over the course of the five-day event.
The festival is structured so that most acts play twice, some even three times, though some, including Elvis Costello and the Imposters only played one (blistering) set. This is to allow for people who buy three-day passes, but it means there is ample flexibility for those on five-day tickets to see almost everything and some headliners twice. The music runs from around midday and finishes up at about midnight.
Most of the sets run for an hour, but some are much longer (Dave Matthews Band played for two excellent hours) allowing hardcore fans to see an extended playlist or for others to mix and match for 30 minutes of one set, 30 minutes of another.
Ultimately, this is a festival for genuine music lovers, with names like Booker T Jones (yes, he played Green Onions, which you know, even if you think you don’t) and Buddy Guy, who at a spritely 77 years old wielded a sense of humour and grace that would have you thinking he wasn’t a day over 50.
Charlie Mussewhite and the James Cotton Blues Band were also spectacular (even if James Cotton himself looked a little worse for wear). Texan stalwart Steve Earle also delivered, playing with The Mastersons, who also played their own great set.
For the guitar fiends looking for the next generation of blues representation, Gary Clark Jr and John Mayer delivered, both setting the stage alight, though there were, thankfully, fewer hysterical young women in the Clark Jr set.
From New Orleans the Soul Rebels hit the stage with some serious brass while Terrance Simien represented the rarely seen zydeco contingent – a beautiful Cajun creation with the always-recognisable sound of accordion and washboard to tap your feet to.
Erykah Badu was one of the only headliners I saw who was late to grace the stage but more than made up for it with a scorching set and emotional end to her Australian and New Zealand tour. Festival favourite Michael Franti and Spearhead wowed everyone with a high voltage 75 minutes and impromptu birthday celebration for the frontman, led by the crowd. Joss Stone also impressed powerful pipes, which seems impossibly huge for such a diminutive young woman.
Jamaican production team Sly and Robbie were one of the more disappointing acts, but Seun Kuti & Egypt 80 more than compensated with his stunning set. The son of Nigerian icon Fela also voiced some pretty powerful political commentary, such as his song ‘International Mother Fuckers’ (IMF), followed by a demand that foreign powers sending aid to Africa should ensure it is helping those who need it most and not just filling the coffers of the already-wealthy.
Some of the smaller acts provided some of the biggest highlights including two phenomenal sets from North Carolina’s ‘roots rock n roll’ diva Nikki Hill, who performed with her equally talented blues guitarist husband Matt Hill.
North Mississippi Allstars didn’t provide the tightest set but were one of the most fun acts going around, with a good time had by all. The drummer also left his kit for one song to teach what can only be described as a masterclass in washboard.
Hat Fitz and Cara led the charge of the Australian contingent, with the two-piece completely filling one of the larger stages. The married couple also provided some of the best banter, constantly teasing each other and having a good-hearted laugh at each other’s expense. Hat Fitz, who is Australian, married to Irish multi-instrumentalist Cara Robinson, holds a BluesFest record, with 21 straight appearances.
Both Irishman Foy Vance and South Carolina’s Iron and Wine captivated the crowds and were much talked-about after their initial sets.
White-suited Aussie blues singer and guitarist CW Stoneking played a relaxed but impressive set. He’s due to play his first stripped back solo shows since 2005, with performances in Sydney and Melbourne in June.
Morcheeba was predictably beautiful, with their hit ‘Down By The Sea’ eliciting all the right goosebumps. One of the more unexpectedly brilliant shows came from Californian funk band War, which were playing in Australia for the first time and blew the crowd away with a spectacularly tight performance. (If you think you don’t know their music – you do. Example: ‘Why can’t we be friends’).
Of course, there were disappointments. You could feel every one of New Orleans legend Dr John’s 73 years – a stark contrast to Buddy Guy, who is four years his senior. Granted, he did play the Nola classic ‘Iko Iko’ (as did Terrance Simien) but overall it really lacked spark and energy and was saved by his particularly feisty female trombone player, who gave it her all.
Apologies to anyone I missed, but it was physically impossible to see every act, though my team of avid music go-ers did joke about cutting ourselves in two King Solomon-style.
The festival has a very mixed crowd, from teens to over 60s, which makes for a great, balanced atmosphere. There are plastic chairs at the back of the biggest tent venues and there is usually space to throw down a blanket during the day.
Some of the logistical issues (such as a two-and-a-half-hour delay to get out of the car-park on opening night and a lack of showers in the camping grounds) seem a bit silly for a festival that has been running for 25 years and been on its current site at Tyagarah, a 15-minute drive north of Byron Bay, for five years. But the scale is massive and there are always bound to teething issues – the festival addressed some of these on its social media channels and attempted to alleviate them for the remainder.
While attending this festival might be an expensive exercise if you don’t live in the region (accommodation, flights, transport and so on ), the stellar line-up make the experience worth the effort and expense, especially if you stump up for a heavily discounted early bird ticket.
This is a festival (or should that be music orgy?) for genuine music lovers, despite some of the hiccups. It would be difficult to even name a favourite set because there were too many that raised the bar too high. Happy birthday Bluesfest – here’s to 250 more!
Rating: 4 ½ out of 5 stars
Byron Bay Bluesfest
Tyagarah Tee Tree Farm
www.bluesfest.com.au
17 – 21 April
